Midnight in Peking still stands as my favorite China book. A true story about the horrific murder of a young expat girl in the late 1930’s of old Beijing, this story still haunts me but I love recommending it to everyone I know. It’s one of those books you just can’t put down (I think I read the whole thing in 72 hours and I’m sure there are many others who have done the same).
The book begins with the discovery of her dead, mutilated body found at the base of a haunted watchtower and the conclusions of her autopsy, so the scariest part is pretty much over after the first chapter (no need for spoiler alerts), but it really draws its readers deep into the twisted plot of this story as the murder mystery unfolds. While offering fresh insights into pre-war Peking, it’s incredible to learn about how Beijing’s network of alleys that surrounded the privileged and exclusive Legation Quarter was a seedy mix of brothels, dive bars and opium dens. In this tragic quest for justice, you have to just remind yourself that this isn’t fiction.
Not to be morbid, but the year that I read Midnight in Peking, I went to the Bookworm and bought 5 copies for family and friends back home as Christmas gifts. I was also one of the first people to sign up for Paul French’s walking tour. Not only did this walking tour through the back alleyways of old Peking bring the story to life, it was pretty awesome to have the privilege to meet the talented author of this gripping tale.
Fast forward three years later and Bespoke Beijing just made my month by announcing their newest collaboration walking tour with Penguin Books – the launch of the “Official Midnight in Peking walking tour” with passionate and animated historian Lars Ulrik Thom (of Beijing Postcards)!
While Paul French’s narrative is the backbone of the tour, Lars dives deeper into this unsolved murder mystery and has managed to discover some game-changing facts including a whole bunch of Chinese police reports from 1937-42 in the National Archives.
For anyone who has yet to read the book, go download it onto your electronic reading device or get your booty over to the Bookworm ASAP to get your own copy of the book for only RMB 120. With the first dates of this tour starting on Saturday, April 23, that gives you more than 2 weeks to read the book before you join in one of the best walking tours in Beijing. Bespoke says that reading the book isn’t essential to enjoying the tour, but you’ll be that much more excited and get so much more out of the tour if you do your homework first.
Walking Tour Meet-Up Point just 2 minutes from the Beijing Railway Station (Line 2) Exit C
One of the first stops of the tour is outside the courtyard of ETC & Pamela Werner
With earpieces included, you don’t have to worry about missing a word
In front of the Fox Tower, this is where Pamela’s Mutilated Body was Found
Walking Along the Old City Walls, Stopping Briefly to Reveal More Untold Facts
A Gorgeous Setting for an Evening Stroll
Entering the “Badlands”
Once Full of Brothels, Opium Dens & Dive Bars, The Badlands looks like any other Hutong Street…or does it?
A Church Tucked Just Around the Corner of the Badlands is Still Used as a Place of Worship
The Dentist’s Old Residence Still Stands, but with locked Gates.
Not Your Average Sight Walking through the Neighborhoods of Beijing
Tasty Cocktails Upon Arrival at Capital M
An exhibition of the Source Material & Historic Maps of Old Peking
Finishing the walking tour with a Q&A with Lars and his team along with a discussion on his research and findings, I can barely articulate my excitement when I say that if you loved the book, you’re going to go bonkers for this tour. Walking through this part of old Peking on the outside border of the old city walls where Pamela used to cycle around the city and discovering massive gothic churches tucked away in little hutongs that I never knew existed is only part of it.
It’s insane that despite the rapid growth and development Beijing has seen the past few decades, there is so much that seems to have remained completed untouched since the 1940′s when the Japanese invaded. It’s mind-blowing that after 80 years hutong street ETC Werner and Pamela lived on is still there, the Fox Tower where she was found is part of the last remnants left of the old city wall, the area of “Badlands” and the exclusive expat community by the Legation Quarter are still just as they were and the best part is that you don’t even need to use your imagination. It’s all just there, almost exactly as it was. The only difference now is that most of the buildings are now boarded up or there is a locked gate at the entrance, but you can still see its out-of-place Western architecture in these old hutong neighborhoods and as much as I’d love to travel back in time to help ETC Werner solve Pamela’s mystery and uncover exactly what happened that dreadful night, this walking tour is pretty much the next best thing.
After Bespoke Beijing released tickets to the public last Friday, they’re almost sold out already after just a few days. Bespoke’s founder Sarah Keenlyside has just released another date for Saturday, May 7th so sign up ASAP and keep checking the Bespoke website for more tour updates.
“Midnight in Peking” Official Walking Tour Details:
- Dates: April 23 (Sat), April 24 (Sun), April 30 (Sat), May 1 (Sun) + May 7 (Sat)
- Time: 6:30PM-9:30PM. Starts at Beijing Station East Street, Ends with Cocktails at Capital M
- Availability: up to 20 spaces per tour date
- Price: RMB 388 per person ticket price (includes a drink at Capital M and exclusive exhibition after the tour)
- To book: email: limitededitiontours@bespoke-
beijing.com and let them know which date you want to book and for how many people - Website: http://www.bespoketravelcompany.com/limited-edition-tours/midnight-in-peking-walking-tour/
About Kristen
Kristen Lum has an accomplished background in PR, communications and events in China. Born and raised in California, Kristen has been based in Beijing since 2006 and is founder of the lifestyle blog called LumDimSum, covering mostly restaurant news and reviews alongside upcoming events around town that relate to Beijing’s muti-faceted, quickly-developing creative industries like art, music, film, health and fitness, fashion, nightlife, charity events, and travel tips.
